Pushpanath Krishnamurthy

The landscape of Papua (Irian Jaya), a province at the far east of Indonesia, is stunning. It's the second-largest biosphere on our planet. The lungs of the world, so to speak.

There are so many initiatives here. Worldwide Fund for Nature (WWF), FOKER, an indigenous network, the United Nations Development Programme (UNDP) among others all have offices in Jayapura, the province's capital.

My Oxfam colleague Laksmi Prasvita took me to the Tabla Supa, an island village in the district of Depapre. After a three hour road trip, and twenty minute boat trip, we arrived.

I was introduced to Ruben Kinja. He's the "leader" of this small island. He literally owns this place - but as he is keen to point out, only as a trustee.

From the way Ruben had been described to me, I was expecting to meet someone with the air of a powerful tycoon, but my imagination and expectation failed me! Instead, I found myself shaking hands with a man wearing shorts and a faded hat, chewing a red beetle nut. He was a treasure of a man, and I felt an instant, electrifying connection with him.

Ruben is in his late fifties. He's gentle, always smiling, and has profound knowledge of the island and its history, going back for many generations. He drew a picture of his extended family tree, and explained his family's deep spiritual connection to the land, the surrounding forest, and to the world at large.

On that very hot afternoon, Ruben climbed with us to the top of a big hill to show us the whole landscape. As we took in the stunning views, he gently narrated the story of the challenges that they face. Traditional fishing livelihoods are under severe threat, simply because the fish are becoming ever more scarce. The coral reef is diminishing. Winds have become unpredictable. And their forest is being exploited and even destroyed by outsiders.

Ancient history tells the story of Julius Cæsar crossing the Rubicon river. "The die is cast," he is reported to have said. It was this act that has since become used in English as a term that means 'there's no turning back'.

And that's the feeling I had, while looking at this all-too-precious view of Papua - a whole eco-system in miniature.

We can't turn back. We must be ready to collaborate with everyone who'll listen, and who'll act to counter climate change.