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ouagadougou Burkina Faso flag
Downtown Ouagadougou
Central Mosque, Ouagadougou

Ouagadougou is a city of a million people - just under ten per cent of Burkina Faso's population. The old Central Mosque remains one of the tallest buildings, and its twin domes are constantly circled by a cloud of swallows. The 12-floor  headquarters of the West African Central Bank is perhaps the grandest of the town’s few modern high-rise buildings. The city also has its churches and the 'Cathedrale de l’Immaculee Conception', which overflows every Sunday morning during its four services in French and in Mooré.

Most buying and selling takes place at the Central Market - and at the stalls lining the main roads, where you can buy almost anything from a toothpick to a fridge-freezer.

The best way to get around Ouagadougou is by mobylette (moped). The mobylette is used by many people to get around Burkina Faso’s cities and towns - they are a great way to avoid rush hour traffic jams. Although the main roads are finished in tarmac, the wind carries dust from the dry plateau that surrounds the city so some riders wear blue or white masks, or wrap a scarf around their faces, to keep out the fine dust that hangs in the air. Newer roads in the city include a bike and mobylette lane.

Many of the mobylette riders are women. Some are dressed for the office in suits or vivid local fabrics. Others are traders, dashing through the traffic with bundles of clothes, plastic kitchen goods, or huge basins of fruit balanced on their heads. On the quieter, leafier streets of the country’s second city, Bobo-Dioulasso, teenagers can be seen making their way to school by mobylette, sometimes two up, rucksacks on backs.

The countryside around the edges of the city is sprinkled with Mossi homesteads - there are no sprawling shanty-towns or slums, which are a feature of many cities in the world.

Printable version of society section

Photo for Oxfam GB by Crispin Hughes