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Landscapes - river spirits
boats on the  Niger river
Boats on the Niger at sunset

The river bus, called a pinasse, goes where passengers ask it to go. Journeys are long, and may last for days. Among the passengers (the pinasse can take up to 200 passengers) you can find traders carrying goods from town to town, tourists on their way to Timbuktu, local people going to visit relatives, and usually some animals in their own area of the bus. The driver keeps the bus going all night and keeps his eye on the weather, in case the boat needs to shelter from a storm.

"I'm not afraid of the river. I just love it. Even when the boat has got stuck I just get down into the water and dive down to free the propeller. I couldn't manage my life without the river; it has always been part of my life.

River spirits might exist: I've heard people telling stories about them, but I've never seen one myself ... People sometimes say that when they're out on the river, driving their boats, they sometimes see strange lights which mislead them, draw them onto sandbanks. Others say that they have seen huge monsters in the water, but I've never seen one." Halidou Maiga, pinasse (water-bus) driver

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Photograph by Rhodri Jones/Oxfam GB