VINTAGE 1920s Gieves Ltd - Size: S - Black - Royal Navy Officer's Tailcoat Uniform Jacket
This stunning donation deserves to be owned by someone who will truly appreciate it - it is a 100 year old piece of British maritime history. From the style, the buttons and the condition, we believe it to be 1920s. The rank is of Sub-lieutenant. The jacket has no fabric label, but is almost certainly wool. We believe it to have been made by Gieves Ltd, as the buttons hold the Gieves Ltd mark to the back. The buttons have the Tudor crown over an anchor, which dates them to 1902 to 1953, and have a fixed loop to fasten, and a braided rope on the circumference, which denotes an officer's button. Gieves Ltd came into being after WWI, which further helps us to date the garment, and the gold bullion collar appears to have disappeared from these jackets by the 1940s. Therefore, we have asmall window of the 1920s, possibly 30s.
The tailcoat has 2 rows of 8 buttons to the front and a stand collar, heavily decorated with gold bullion. The bullion needs a little attention, as it has loose threads and the stitching has come away, making it loose. It is all there, however, so can be easily repaired. The shoulders do not have epaulettes, but the hook and loop are present. On the left shoulder, the back of the hook has pulled through the fabric, so it needs a small repair. The sleeve cuffs have the rank of sub-lieutenant - one stripe with a loop - and a decorative shaped panel, trimmed with gold bullion and surmounted with three smaller buttons. On the right cuff, the loop of the rank has pulled loose, so needs a few stitches. To the rear, the jacket has a split seam on the left shoulder - see photo - but it is a clean split and can be tailored easily. There is aslo a 1.5" run on the right armhole at the back - not easy to spot, but might benefit from attention. At the tails, the bullion trimmed flaps on the waist are in great condition, each with three buttons stitched beneath them. The bottom of the tails also have a button each. There is a single metal hool on the back of the waist towards the left hip - we are unsure of it's purpose, but it doesn't appear that there was ever one on the right hip. The tails also have a concealed pocket in each one - very handy for smuggling in a hip flask, perhaps! The lining of the tails is quite grubby, with several marks to it. The inside of the jacket needs the most attention - the lining has come away almost entirely from the back, and will need to be replaced - it is not repairable. The lining of the front panels is fine, as is the sleeve lining.
All in all, this really is a fantastic garment, and while it has some marks and damage, it's not suprising, given it's age. Who knows what sights it's seen?! So if you've always wanted to own a genuine piece of Naval history, this is your perfect opportunity!