Read the care label: A guide to eco-friendly fabrics

According to United Nations Regional Information Centre for Western Europe (UNRIC), Europeans purchase around 26 kilos of textiles each year and discard approximately 11 kilos.

As a result, the environmental impact of our clothing consumption, particularly in terms of carbon emissions, continues to grow.

Understanding how different fibres are produced and the impact they have on people and the planet can help you make more informed shopping choices.

Consider buying second-hand first. Keeping clothes in use for longer reduces the need for new production and helps tackle the growing problem of overconsumption.

The second-hand fashion market is expected to grow to 1.5 times the size of fast fashion by 2028, as more people look for affordable, environmentally responsible ways to shop.

This shift couldn’t come at a more important time. Oxfam’s Second Hand September State of Style report 2026 revealed that the clothing industry is on course to produce 138 billion garments a year that are never worn, equivalent to nearly four outfits for every person on the planet.

While buying second-hand is one of the most effective ways to reduce fashion's environmental impact, the fabrics we choose still matter.

In this guide, we'll explore the benefits of shopping second-hand, alongside the environmental and social impacts of different fabric types, so you can make informed choices when you shop.

We’ve just experienced one of the hottest summers and most intense heatwaves ever recorded in the UK. To stay comfortable in the hot weather, we often look for lightweight, breathable clothing. However, the fabrics we wear have an impact beyond our wardrobes.

Research in Oxfam's State of Style report shows that over half of Brits (51%) regret at least one clothing purchase from the past year. The water wasted on new clothing that people regret could supply enough drinking water for all humanity for 10 days.

Fashion's impact on the planet

The fashion industry is a large contributor to the climate and ecological crisis, with reported figures showing the industry is responsible for between 2-8% of global carbon emissions. This means it’s important to consider the emissions generated through a garment’s production.

The materials we select can have a significant impact on environmental challenges, including biodiversity loss, with the clothing industry being linked to the logging of more than 150 million trees each year.

Are natural fibres always better?

Natural fibres are often a good place to start when looking for breathable, durable clothing. However, natural doesn’t automatically mean eco-friendly. For example, natural fibres such as cotton can require significant amounts of water to produce, and intensive farming methods have been linked to unsustainable water use, particularly in regions already facing scarcity.

There are also wider concerns around agricultural practices and labour conditions within the cotton supply chain, raising important questions about the overall environmental and social impact of these materials.

Furthermore, UN Environmental Programme research (PDF) found that fashion relies on a marginalised workforce, many of whom live in regions that are among the most vulnerable to the effects of climate change.

If we define eco-friendly as anything that benefits the environment or minimises its environmental impact, we can assess different fibres against this criterion.

However, fabric sustainability is a nuanced topic, and every fibre comes with its own advantages and disadvantages.

Although natural fibres are not derived from fossil fuels and are biodegradable, they require more land and water to produce. Natural fibres can also generate significant carbon emissions during production and transportation, meaning they should not be considered impact-free fabrics.

However, fibres such as hemp, lyocell, linen and organic  cotton are often recognised for benefits including reduced chemical use during the production process, biodegradability, carbon storage, and in some cases, increased energy efficiency.

Hemp: durable and resource-efficient

Hemp is derived from the Cannabis Sativa plant and can be used to create a wide range of products, from clothing and homeware to animal bedding, by utilising different parts of the plant.

Hemp requires relatively few inputs to grow and is recognised for benefits including supporting biodiversity and absorbing and storing carbon while growing.

Hemp is particularly well suited to clothing because it retains its shape well, is highly breathable and is naturally resistant to wear and tear. One drawback is that hemp can feel coarser than cotton, although it often softens with wear and washing.

In terms of material substitution, the Stockholm Environment Institute (PDF) found that hemp has a lower impact on water, energy and the Ecological Footprint.

Linen: a breathable, lower-impact fibre

Linen is made from flax and is commonly used for items such as bedding, clothing, homeware and accessories.

Linen is highly absorbent and naturally breathable, making it particularly popular in warm weather. Depending on where it is grown, the cultivation of flax requires no irrigation, no fertilisers, no herbicides or pesticides. As a result, linen is often considered a lower-impact option than many conventional fibres, particularly from a biodiversity perspective.

Lyocell: a wood-based alternative

One fibre worth looking out for is Lyocell, sometimes referred to as Tencel™ (Tencel™ is a trademark).Lyocell is a plant-based fibre made from wood pulp, typically sourced from hardwood trees such as oak or birch.

Because it’s made from wood pulp, responsible sourcing is important. Looking for fibres derived from responsibly managed forests can help reduce environmental impacts associated with raw material production. Although its raw material is natural, the fibre itself is manufactured through a man-made processing method using solvents.

In terms of its properties as a fabric, it’s recognised for its high-quality fibres, strength and tenacity. Tencel™ Lyocell fibres are also biodegradable and compostable, which can make them a lower-impact choice when sourced and manufactured responsibly.

The challenges with conventional cotton

Conventional cotton production can be associated with environmental and social challenges. The use of pesticides can harm biodiversity, while reports of forced labour and child labour in parts of the global supply chain highlight the need to take a more responsible approach to cotton production and consumption.

Why choose organic cotton?

Choosing organic cotton is a good place to start. Organic cotton is grown without GMOs, synthetic pesticides or artificial fertilisers. It also generally requires less energy and water than conventional cotton production, while supporting farming practices that can benefit soil health and biodiversity.

To be sold as organic, the raw cotton must be grown on farms certified to their respective government-controlled organic standard.

What certifications should you look for?

When shopping for cotton, one of the best indicators to look for is GOTS (Global Organic Textile Standard).

GOTS is widely recognised as the leading certification for organic textiles, covering both environmental and social criteria throughout the supply chain, with every stage of the supply chain required to be GOTS-certified. This includes requirements around chemical use, worker protections and traceability.

What is Better Cotton?

Better Cotton is an industry initiative that works with farmers to improve environmental and social practices in cotton production. While it is not equivalent to organic certification, it can be a useful indicator that efforts are being made to improve environmental and social outcomes within cotton production.

This Second Hand September is a great opportunity to start, or continue, shopping second-hand natural fibres. In our natural fibres collection, you’ll find a whole range of different natural fibre options.

According to the UNEP, about 60% of material made into clothing is plastic, which includes polyester, acrylic and nylon textiles.

This means that synthetic fibres now dominate much of the global clothing industry, making it increasingly important to understand their environmental impacts.

Is polyester eco-friendly?

Polyester is a synthetic, man-made fibre. 63% of clothes are made from synthetic fibres, which are plastics made from fossil fuels (UNEP, PDF).

While polyester offers some practical benefits, its environmental impacts cannot be ignored. In 2022, producing polyester required an estimated 70 million barrels of oil.

Polyester is not biodegradable and releases microplastics into the environment. Research from UNEP (PDF) found that an estimated 35% of ocean microplastics originates from the washing of synthetic textiles. As the fashion industry continues to rely heavily on synthetic fibres, these impacts are becoming harder to ignore.

Polyester's other drawbacks

Polyester has become one of the world’s most popular fabrics because it’s inexpensive, durable and easy to manufacture. However, its drawbacks aren’t only environmental. Did you know that, like many synthetic fibres, polyester can trap heat without effectively regulating body temperature?

Imagine it is a winter’s day and you’re wearing a polyester-blend, acrylic “wool look” jumper. You’re walking around, and rather than feeling comfortably warm, you begin to sweat. Because the fabric lacks breathability, moisture becomes trapped against the skin and makes you feel clammy rather than cosy.

Polyester's place in your wardrobe

That said, synthetic fibres still have a role to play in clothing production, particularly in sportswear where moisture-wicking and durability are important performance characteristics.

The negative impacts of polyester do not mean you should throw your garments away. In fact, one of the most sustainable things you can do is wear the clothes you already own.

But when you're choosing between fibres while shopping, it's worth understanding the impacts of different fibres and why many people are looking for natural and recycled alternatives.

What about recycled polyester?

Recycled polyester, also known as rPET, is a growing alternative to virgin polyester. It is created chemically or mechanically and comes in forms such as textile-to-textile recycling and bottle-to-textile recycling.

Because recycled polyester uses existing plastic materials, it reduces reliance on newly extracted fossil fuels and can lower some of the environmental impacts associated with virgin polyester’s production. It also supports a more circular approach to resource use by keeping existing materials in circulation for longer.

In 2025, an initiative was launched, convened by the UN Climate Change, to encourage textile and apparel brands to replace their use of virgin polyester with recycled polyester. Some brands that have committed to this initiative include Adidas and H&M Group.

Is leather eco-friendly?

Leather production can contribute to deforestation, with cattle accounting for more than 40% of global livestock-related greenhouse gases.

The tanning process used to produce leather can be highly polluting to the environment. Leather production involves a chemical-intensive tanning process that transforms raw hide into a durable material. Tanning can require significant water use and often relies on chemicals such as chromium.

So, what can you do? You could opt for vegan “leathers”; however, many are made of fossil fuel-derived plastics that don’t biodegrade.

Buying leather second-hand is a more sustainable and budget-friendly option because you’re keeping these items in circulation for longer. As a bonus, buying second-hand Dr Martens often means someone else has already done the hard work of breaking them in.

As we've seen, fabric sustainability is complex – no fabric can genuinely claim zero environmental impact.

However, what we can do is make informed decisions about the types of fabric we buy and prioritise shopping pre-loved over new, thereby keeping existing items in circulation for longer.

How to choose more sustainable fabrics

Step 1. Re-wear your clothes. Extending the life of clothing is one of the most effective ways to improve sustainability.

Step 2. Read the care labels and choose durable, high-quality fibres where possible.

Step 3. Research brands known for quality and longevity, and keep an eye out for them when shopping second-hand.

Step 4. Follow the care label instructions carefully to help garments last longer.

Step 5. Repair, reuse and repurpose your clothing as much as possible.

Step 6. Utilise services such as Oxfam rental to be ready for all occasions without buying brand-new items or taking up space in your wardrobe.

There is no perfect fibre. Every material requires resources, energy and labour to produce. Sustainability isn't about finding a miracle fibre. It's about changing how we buy, wear, and value our clothes.

Buying fewer clothes, choosing higher-quality garments, caring for them properly and keeping them in use for longer can make a meaningful difference.

Whether you're shopping in your wardrobe, repairing a favourite item or buying second-hand, the goal is the same: keeping clothes in circulation for as long as possible.